briciole

quattro per sette ventotto

four times seven is twenty-eight
Recently, I tagged Marta, An Italian in the US, with the "six random things" meme, so it is quite fair that she returns the favor, with interest, in the form of 28 questions (that looks rather random to me) to answer. Since this will be a longish post, passo al sodo (I'll cut to the chase):

1. Last movie you saw in a theater?
"The Band's Visit" (NY Times review)

2. What book are you reading?
"La luna di carta" (The Paper Moon) by Andrea Camilleri (available in English translation). I am actually reading this Montalbano novel for the second time, to fulfill a promise (I realize this is a bit enigmatic, but everything will become clear in the not too distant future).

3. Favorite board game?
I am not a board game player.

4. Favorite magazine?
The New York Review of Books, of which I am a long-time subscriber.

5. Favorite smells?
Vanilla, vaniglia e anice stellato (vanilla and star anise: what a pair!), the ocean.

6. Favorite sounds?
Leaving aside music: the ocean, the underwater world (i.e., the sounds I hear while I am diving), laughter.

7. Worst feeling in the world?
Feeling inadequate to the situation or the task at hand.

8. What is the first thing you think of when you wake up?
I need to drink my tea.

9. Favorite fast food place?
No fast food for me, thanks.

10. Future child’s name?
I don't see a child in my future.

11. Finish this statement. “If I had lot of money I'd...?
...start a charitable organization to help girls and women around the world. I would get involved in how it distributes funds and travel a bit to visit the places where such funds are distributed.

12. Do you sleep with a stuffed animal?
Meet Rabbit. 

13. Storms - cool or scary?
Cool, until they get to a point when they endanger people, then scary.

14. Favorite drinks?
A hot cappuccino, made with coffee that has been roasted well and the right amount of good-quality milk that has been heated up to the right temperature. I wish you could see the dreamy look on my face.

15. Finish this statement, “If I had the time I would….”?
...have a bigger vegetable garden.

16. Do you eat the stems on broccoli?
Are there really people who don't?

17. If you could dye your hair any color, what would be your choice?
I like highlights, but I am afraid I won't have patience for the lengthy process they require.

18. Name all the different cities/towns you’ve lived in.
Perugia, Milano and Sesto San Giovanni (Italy), Orinda, Berkeley, now Trinidad and Oakland (California).

19. Favorite sports to watch?
Nuoto (swimming), but I haven't watched it in a long long time.

20. One nice thing about the person who sent this to you?
Marta is a wonderful person, a true gem. I am very happy we met, something that has happened thanks to our blogs. It was friendship at first sight.

21. What’s under your bed?
Nothing, unless our cat decides to hang out there.

22. Would you like to be born as yourself again?
Yes, but I would make a different career choice.

23. Morning person, or night owl?
Middle of the way: I am not very productive early in the morning or late at night.

24. Over easy, or sunny side up?
Sunny side up, and a childhood ritual to eat it.

25. Favorite places to relax?
Outside and in movement (kayaking, walking, biking, etc.), in a swimming pool (swimming) or at home practicing yoga.

26. Favorite pie?
I recently made a butternut squash galette with yeasted dough from Deborah Madison's "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" that is simply fabulous. I highly recommend it.

27. Favorite ice cream flavor?
Cioccolato (chocolate), both to make and to eat, though nowadays it is mostly the former, and I must say, even though it sounds conceited, that my gelato al cioccolato is quite good.

28. Of all the people you tagged this to, who’s most likely to respond first?
I will tag only one person, which I guess solves the problem: Lisa of Champaign Taste, my wonder-partner in the Novel Food event. 

Hear me pronounce the words on the quattro per sette ventotto audio file [mp3] or go to the quattro per sette ventotto audio page for more listening options.

torta Opéra

Opéra cake
When I read the name of the recipe for the May Daring Bakers' challenge, my reaction was a big question mark: what's an Opéra cake? What I learned was that it is a cake made up of five elements: a joconde to make the layers, a syrup to wet the joconde, a buttercream for filling (ripieno), a ganache or mousse for the top layer, and a glaze (glassa) over it. I read that and I started to enumerate all the possible ways in which things could go wrong for me. The result was TMTC (i.e., too many to count). Don't worry, however, I won't recount them all.

As a matter of fact, things went pretty smoothly until I tried to glaze my cake with cioccolato bianco (white chocolate). The warmed up chocolate did not behave well and the addition of cream (panna) made things even worse, so that when I poured the melted mixture over the top of my cake, it slid to the bottom, forming a pool of gooey stuff that fortunately the underlying tray was able to contain. I would have none of that and therefore, armed with a spatula, I scraped off as much as I could and saved my poor cake.

But I guess I should start from the beginning and it helps if I reference the recipe, compliments of Daring Bakers' glorious founders Ivonne of Cream Puffs in Venice and Lis of La Mia Cucina. I halved the recipe for the joconde, which was easy, so I had a cake of reasonable size. This part turned out well. I then made crema instead of buttercream so that I could eat the cake (read: dietary requirement). The ganache was optional and I opted out of it.

As overall flavor I used mandorla (almond), adding Amaretto to the syrup and almond extract to the crema. Ground almonds are an ingredient of the nicely textured joconde. The joconde is really good sponge cake  that was easy to work with, both before and after baking. I am familiar with crema, so that was not a problem, apart from the fact that I underestimated the amount I would need, so I had to make two batches.

After recovering from the white chocolate debacle, I sprinkled the cake with sliced almonds and the visual effect was not altogether bad. The photo, which is the only shot I could salvage (even the camera rebelled against me that day), shows half the cake already sprinkled with sliced almonds and half the cake still scarred after the disastrous glazing attempt and subsequent painful scraping. If you would like to see what an Opéra cake looks like, peruse the gorgeous creations of my talented fellow Daring Bakers.

I try to look at this as a learning experience. I must admit that it is more fun to look back at it a little while afterwards, since, while it happens, I cannot say I am always enjoying myself. I would like to be better at making pretty cakes. But for now I must content myself with the flavor. As long as guests around my table eat what I make with a smile on their face, I am happy, very happy. I am planning to make this cake again soon and, when that happens, I hope I will have a nice photo to share.

Hear me pronounce the words on the torta Opéra audio file [mp3] or go to the torta Opéra audio page for more listening options. Note that I am pronouncing Opéra in the original French.

gelato all'anice stellato

star anise ice cream
A little while ago, I had dinner with Marta, An Italian in the US, at her new place. In the kitchen, I saw a small bag of anice stellato and then and there I decided I would try and make gelato with it. 

I saw a few recipes where star anise was paired with vaniglia (vanilla) and that made sense, so I did the same. The basic plan was to use less vanilla than I usually do in my gelato alla vaniglia, infuse the milk with both vanilla and star anise, but keep the former for a longer time, to balance the latter. This theoretical algorithm was translated into the following recipe, which is based on the recipe for vanilla ice cream that I am currently using (such recipe is a work-in-progress and therefore it is subject to change).

In the morning, warm up to just below boiling point 1 and 1/2 cups of non-fat milk with 2 tablespoons of agave nectar, 1/4 cup of whole star anise (8 pieces or so) and 1/3 or 1/2 of a vanilla bean (baccello di vaniglia) split in half lengthwise to reveal the tiny black seeds inside. Note: I am currently using vanilla beans bought in bulk (three dozens or so) that are significantly less flavorful than the ones I used to buy, individually or in pairs, from local stores. Hence, I used half a bean. Had I used the "old" kind of vanilla, I would have cut 1/3 of a bean. Remove from the heat the saucepan with the milk, cover it and let it cool for an hour. At this point, retire the star anise, but not the vanilla bean, then make the custard.

Beat 1 extra-large egg and 3 yolks with a 1/4 cup of granulated sugar until the mixture is bubbly. Slowly add the milk to the beaten eggs, then pour the mixture back in the saucepan and put on the stove over low heat, stirring. When a film forms over the back side of the stirring spoon (I use a wooden one), draw your finger across. If the line stays clear, the custard is ready. (If it overheats, it will curdle.) The saucepan goes straight from the heat to a cold water bath: keep stirring the custard to bring down its temperature. When the custard is cool, cover the pan and place it in the fridge until thoroughly cold.

In the evening, when ready to churn, take the custard out of the fridge, add to it 3/4 cup of chilled heavy whipping cream and mix. With a spatula, retrieve the two halves of the piece of vanilla bean and scrape the seeds, then mix again and finally pour the custard into the ice cream maker. Let the machine run until its content reaches gelato consistency, soft and creamy. Stop the machine, scrape the ice cream from the sides and bottom of the machine bowl, scoop and serve immediately.

The dose of star anise and vanilla that I chose worked well: both flavors are detectable and neither overpowers the other. And the smell is divine. A final note: the flavor of ice cream depends heavily on the ingredients. I use organic milk and cream (latte e panna) and pasture-ranged eggs, whose dense and deeply-colored yolks make the ice cream shine like a star (stella).

This recipe is offered to Susan of Food Blogga as my contribution to Beautiful Bones, an event she launched to spread awareness about osteoporosis, a very important health subject. May is Osteoporosis Awareness and Prevention Month.

Hear me pronounce the words on the gelato all'anice stellato audio file [mp3] or go to the gelato all'anice stellato audio page for more listening options.

Edizione speciale: Novel Food #4

Special Edition: Announcing Novel Food #4

I know what you are thinking: how did this happen? Do you mean it is almost summer? I believe it happened naturally and indeed, a new season is around the corner and that marks the return of Novel Food, the culinary/literary event that Lisa of Champaign Taste and I co-launched a few seasons ago. As in previous editions of the event, we are looking to find culinary inspiration in literary works. Hence, we are co-hosting the fourth edition of Novel Food, which makes it an event for all seasons.

In case you missed the previous editions of the event and you are wondering what it is about, the split roundup of the previous version (my portion is here and Lisa's portion is here) should give you a sense of what this is all about.

I will make this announcement short and just lay out the simple rules for participating in Novel Food #4:

1. Prepare a dish of your choosing that has a connection to a published literary work (novel, novella, short story, memoir, bio).
2. Post it on your blog by Saturday June 21, 2008, 9 am (Pacific Time).
3. Send an e-mail to Lisa (webrina AT gmail DOT com) or to me (simosite AT mac DOT com) and include your name, blog name and blog address, and a permanent link to your post. Please, include the words "Noel Food" in the email subject, so we can more easily retrieve the message in our inbox.

Non-English submissions are fine. If possible, include an introduction in English.

Lisa and I will do a roundup soon afterward the deadline: it will be our special way of welcoming the new season.

porcellana

purslane or porcelain
From a December 1992 article in Agricultural Research:

It's known as purslane - a plant that is a troublesome weed in many U.S. crops, especially vegetables. But recent research findings confirm that purslane is also a rich source of fatty acids, vitamin E, and other key nutrients - making it a prime candidate as a new vegetable crop. There are about 200 species of purslane, the common name for a group of plants known as Portulaca. Scientists have focused on one annual species, P. oleracea, found around the world and in all 50 states. It is known for its persistence - it grows even in poor-quality soils with little water and resists disease...
P. oleracea contains more of one omega-3 fatty acid - called alpha-linolenic acid - than any other green leafy vegetable yet studied.

I must admit I was purslane-illiterate until a few weeks ago, when, while roaming around our farmers' market, a bunch of purslane attracted my attention. My friend Christine of Christine Cooks, with whom I was sharing the shopping adventure, invited me to taste a leaf: it was succulent, crunchy, with a slightly tart flavor. I was told I could use it in salads or cook it lightly, like spinach. I was convinced, and proceeded to place the bunch of purslane in my basket.

Had my memory functioned a bit better, I would have remembered reading about purslane salad with yogurt on Almost Turkish Recipe. Soon after my purchase, I made a hybrid soup/stew with hulled barley and decided, on the spur of the moment, to add to it the tender sprigs of the bunch of purslane during the last five minutes of cooking. Later on, I read that "Purslane’s high level of pectin thickens soups and stews," a retroactive justification of my impulsive action. I loved the result and the flavor of purslane, so much so that I have been buying a bunch at every visit to the market. I have also sautéed, together with baby spinach and boiled Swiss chard, and again the result was delicious.

In summary, purslane makes a nice addition to salads, soups and sautés. This is called versatility. Add to the list of good qualities the fact that it is tasty, either raw or lightly cooked, and that it contains precious nutrients, and the result is a really nice resume for a vegetable that, until not long ago, was considered a weed (erbaccia).

The Latin word portulaca is conserved in the scientific name of the plant. According to my Italian dictionary, the word had the variant porcillaca, ancestor of porcellana. As noted at the beginning of the post, the same word in Italian indicates also porcelain, china (for example, un vaso di porcellana, a china vase): in this meaning, the word porcellana has a different etymology. Cowrie is also porcellana in Italian.

This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, a food blogging event started over two years ago by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen and hosted this week by Gay, A Scientist in the Kitchen. Here is the roundup of WHB #133. 

Hear me pronounce the words on the porcellana audio file [mp3] or go to the porcellana audio page for more listening options.

Cucina in California

My second contribution to Francesca's blog is my first restaurant review ever. The restaurant in question is Chez Panisse Café, located upstairs in the same building that houses the celebrated restaurant. Talking about Chez Panisse means talking about Alice Waters and her role in the the culinary history of North America, so you will find a bit of that in the post, of which you will find the Italian version here and the English version here.

sei cose a caso

six random things
Peter of Detectives Beyond Borders tagged me with the "six random things about yourself" meme in this post. I hereby comply with the meme's request.

Randomness does not really apply to this selection process, because I don't have a jar full of things about myself from which, with eyes covered, I can pick six items at random. Still, I tried to let chance (il caso) guide my choice (scelta), at least to some extent: I picked six things from my hyper-chaotic desk to tell you something about myself through them.

1. As a child, I wanted to learn to bind books (rilegare libri). There was a bindery next to my parents' house and for me it was a magic place. I never went inside and could not see much from the outside, so I didn't know what binding books was actually about, but I loved the idea. Many years later, when I was at Mills College studying Computer Science, I took Book Arts classes and my dream came true.
   
2. I am a compulsive collector of things that I find when I walk on the beach (spiaggia): pieces of wood, fragments of shells, pebbles. I think these objects tell stories. The piece of wood in the photo was an amazing find.
3. I write with a fountain pen (penna stilografica). I started using fountain pens when I was in second grade or so. As a consequence, my white apron had ink stains, of which I was very proud, because they proved that I was hard at work with my pen.
4. I like Baci Perugina. I was born and grew up in Perugia, where these chocolates were created. My deep love for chocolate started very early.
   
5. In college (in Milan) I studied English and German (language and literature). I wrote my thesis (which students must do in Italy to graduate) on a novel by Edith Wharton and still enjoy her works. Suggested (short) reading: Roman Fever.
6. I am a great admirer of violinist Joshua Bell. The first time I listened to him in concert, some years ago, it was an amazing and unforgettable experience. I have had many such experiences ever since. A few years ago, I sent him an email inviting him to taste some of my home made ice cream. The only time in my life I have tried to make contact with a celebrity, I received no answer. My admiration for him was not affected, nor was my enjoyment of ice cream making.
   

After revealing six things about myself, I am required to pass along the meme to six bloggers and here they are, in alphabetical order: Almost Turkish Recipes, An Italian in the US, Babbling Blueberry, Baking History, Champaign Taste and Taste with the Eyes.

Hear me pronounce the words on the sei cose a caso audio file [mp3] or go to the sei cose a caso audio page for more listening options.